James Cleveland Memorial

Some places I want to visit are not as easily accessible as others when it comes to finding Pennsylvania's vast historical sites. One such places is the James Cleveland Memorial. Most people has never heard of it and the few who have are probably avid hikers in central PA.

There are two ways to reach the trail head to the James Cleveland Trail. The first and most popular way is off of PA 144 between Pleasant Gap and Centre Hall by following Greens Valley Road. The second and older way is off of PA 192 along what is now private property. The trail was made by local boy scout groups and maintained by them. The part of the trail that goes towards Rt 192 from the summit is older and not routinely traveled.

On a cool May afternoon, a friend of mine and I decided to go for a hike and visit the memorial and took the lesser used route from PA 192. There is a small pull off where the trail head is marked. No posted signs or anything was to be seen so we obeyed the “no motor vehicle” sign and left the car and started our hike.

The first part was back an old farm lane. After a few hundred yards we came to a crossing over a small stream. Not until our way back did we realize that is where the trail ended/started. We continued up the lane until we came to the mountain and started our hike up the steep climb up Mt. Nittany. My GPS eventually took us to the right direction and we met the well blue blazed trail. The trek up the mountain was strenuous and we were glad to have a cool day to hike.

Towards the summit the trail became more rocky and we came to a small boulder field were people had stacked some rocks to form small towers. The vista from this point was pretty impressive. James was an early air mail pilot and on May 24^th1934, he wreck into the side of Mt. Nittany. There was a small fire pit and logs around to sit. Unfortunately our climb was cut short by the sudden fall of hail. We continued our climb a few hundred feet and came across the James Cleveland Memorial obelisk and rock tower with plan wreckage. The memorial is in a small pine grove and very peaceful.

We proceeded to hike back down the mountain trying not to fall forward. The trail is only 2 miles one way and I would like to visit the other side of the mountain sometime.

The Standoff in Woodard

     Just northeast of State college along Route 45 is the small town of Woodward. With a population of just over 100, not much happens and you probably wouldn’t even know you drove through it. However, in the spring of 1896, the sleepy town was in an uproar over a menacing outlaw that was terrorizing the area.

     William Ettlinger was a known terror in Center County and was always getting into trouble and fights. Reportedly  Ettlinger had beat his father-in-law to a pulp with a whip handle and had a warrant out for his arrest. Ettlinger fled the small town and hid out in the mountains for about 6 months and evaded the local law enforcement, but continued to terrorize the small town. Ettlinger even promised to poison the towns water supply with pesticides. Many of the townspeople were looking for someone to stand up against this outlaw and one man finally did.

     John Barner was a newly appointed constable for the area and made a promise when he got the position that he would bring Ettlinger to justice. Trying to make good on his promise, Barner went to serve Ettlinger his warrant with two deputies but was met at the door by two blasts from a shotgun. Ettlinger then stepped out and slit his throat for good measure and began to fire at the deputies who ran for help. Sheriff Condo was called in from Bellefonte with a few armed men to stop Ettlinger. A standoff developed with volleys of gunfire and Ettlinger throwing an occasional stick of dynamite. The Sherif and his men lit Ettlinger’s house on fire in an attempt to smoke him out. Eventually Ettlinger came out of his home firing and then took his own life.

     After Ettlinger was dead, John Barner was laid to rest in Woodward Cemetery and William Ettlinger was thrown in a shallow grave in a near orchard. Years later, descendants of Ettlinger moved his remains to Woodward Cemetery only a couple years away from Barner. To this day people have reported hearing and smelling gunfire in the cemetery and strange shadows. On my visit to the cemetery, I found it quite peaceful and had no difficulty finding the grave sites of the two men. Please be respectful if you plan to visit this location.

The Bleeding Tombstone of Union Cemetery

     A small cemetery in Centre county Pennsylvania has been getting a lot of attention in the paranormal community for many years. There is a bizarre story that one of the tombstones in the cemetery bleeds. I have heard stories and read various articles about this gravestone and just had to visit it my self.

     The Union Cemetery just west of Milheim along Route 45 is home to the reports of a bleeding tombstone. The interment in question is William Musser. Besides being the larges stone in the cemetery, his gravestone is said to bleed from time to time. Since his death, people have reported a reddish brown stain appearing around the lettering of his tombstone. The family of Musser have tried washing the stain away, replacing the stone, and evening placing a plaque over the lettering but the bloodstain seems to reappear.

     No one is certain why something like this would happen to William Musser. Many thought he was a serial killer but that was only local speculation. William Musser was just a small town businessman and no one can figure out why this supernatural occurrence would happen to his tombstone. The tombstone now has not bled in years but older residents of the area can still remember the stains from their younger years.

Please be respectful if you choose to visit this location and parking is limited.

The Bleeding Tombstone

Lost Resting Places: Askey Cemetery

     

     While out and about in Centre County, I came across a small cemetery outside the town of Moshannon. Askey cemetery is a small unassuming cemetery; however, it has a haunting reputation. Many years ago a car accident took place near the cemetery and a young man died. It is said that the young man that lost his life haunts the perimeter of the cemetery. Another tale tells of a coal miner who was hung in the cemetery for spying on the mine bosses. The cemetery also holds stories of weird things happening like strange lights, sounds and shadows. An old man in a gardener’s outfit and a young girl who died in a fire has also been seen in the cemetery. One of the weirdest accounts is of a demonic deer that chases off intruders late at night.

      During the day, the cemetery is a peaceful and quiet and was a great place to stop and take a walk during my adventures through Centre County. Please be respectful of the cemetery and it’s interments if you decided to visit. The Cemetery is east from Moshannon following Route 144 on the left.

The Coburn Tunnel aka Beaver Dam Tunnel

Western Portal

     In a scenic area of Centre County, I happened to stumble across an old tunnel on my way to Poe Paddy State Park. The tunnel is just outside the town of Coburn and aptly named the Coburn tunnel. As I approached the western entrance, people were fishing and informed me it was an old railroad tunnel and used to be called the Beaver Dam Tunnel.

     Once I was home, I researched the tunnel and found out that a few other tunnels are in the area and will need to be investigated at a later date. The Beaver Dam Tunnel I accidentally found was constructed in 1877 and approximately 260 feet long. The tunnel was first used by the Lewisburg, Centre, and Spruce Creek RR (LC&SC). Later the ownership switched to the Lewisburg/Tyrone RR in 1879 and then again to the PA RR in 1915. In the 1960s the tunnel was abandoned but locals still use the area round the tunnel to fish, hike and party judging by the broken class and cans in the area. There has been talk to connect a few of the tunnels and old railroad beds in the area to make a Rails-to-Trails for hiking and biking, but nothing has been settled yet with property owners and financiers.

      You can’t have an old abandon tunnel without some sort of folklore surrounding it. There is a story of a man being hung at the entrance of the tunnel sometime before it was closed down in the 1960s. The story does say if someone else hanged the man or if it was a suicide. Since then, at night if you drive an ATV or motorcycle through the tunnel it will shut off halfway.

Curtain Village & The Eagle Iron Works

     When you visit Curtain Village in Centre County, it’s like taking a walk in the past. Curtain Village, or The Eagle Iron Works, was a small town that sprang up around the iron industry. In 1818, Roland Curtain and Moses Boggs erected the eagle furnace in what is now Boggs Township. The 11,000 acres that they bought were abundant in hematite iron, limestone, and running water to power the operation. The iron produced was shipped by ground and canal until the Pennsylvania Railroad was established and helped to transport the more than 600 tons of iron a year. In 1848, the Eagle Furnace was replaced by the Pleasant Furnace and is today the last charcoal iron furnace in Central Pennsylvania.

      Centered around the Eagle Iron Works, Curtain Village became its own sustainable community. A mill and forge soon followed after the furnace was built and the property continued to grow to include a village for the workers. The village included homes, stores, a school and a church. From 1810 to 1921 over 60 structures were built-in Curtain Village. One of the most impressive is the Mansion that was built-in the Federal Style in 1830. The mansion has over fifteen rooms and ten fireplaces and serves as a visitor center now.

     Currently Curtain Village is accessible to the public. Many of the buildings still exist and are well
maintained by The Pennsylvania Historical and Museums Commission. The property opens on Memorial Day and guided tours are available on weekends.

     To get to Curtain Village, take I-80 to exit 158; Turn left onto Route 150 and then turn right at the sign.

Edgar Allen Poe's Visit to Central Pennsylvania

Eutaw House

Near State College Pennsylvania, there is a former restaurant with a lot of history behind it called the Eutaw House. The Eutaw House has been in existence for over two centuries. General James Potter, who was notably an aide to George Washington during the American Revolution, originally owned the ground where the building sits today. After Gen. Potter’s death, his children built a log cabin on his property. Later the log cabin would become the Eutaw House and go through a few more renovations. During its early years, the house served as a major inn for early pioneers and travelers. The house was named after the local Eutaw Indian tribe.

            As anyone could imagine with the Eutaw House being around for a few centuries, it has gathered some ghost stories through the years. Ghostly shapes have been seen in mirrors throughout the building. In the kitchen and restaurant, trays and plates have been known to flip over or fall off tables. Patrons and employees have seen apparitions and shadows move in the hallways and rooms. One story tells of a prisoner being shot or hung in the attic during the 1800s and a different story says that it was a tree at the corner of the property. During one of the early Indian raids on the Eutaw house, one Indian is said to have been hung on the large old tree. Hearing a rope “thud” or creaking noise has been reported near the tree to this day.

            Even with all the ghostly happenings at the Eutaw House, its most interesting story is the speculation that Edgar Allen Poe had once stayed the night at the Inn. Some early folklorists have written that Edgar Allen Poe had once visited the Centre County area and was even inspired to write a few stories such as the Raven during his travels through Central Pennsylvania. The only evidence that leads some credibility is the initial “EAP” that are carved into one of the oldest tables in the Eutaw House. Historians today doubt the legend of Poe’s journey to Centre County, but it makes for a good story nonetheless.

As for now the Eutaw House remains vacant without any intention to remodel or reopen. This landmark sits in Potters Mills at the intersection of Route 322 and Route 144. The house is still privately owned so please do not trespass.

Scotia Barrens & The Black Ghost

Remnants of The ghost town Scotia

In Centre County, North-west of State College, there is an area known to the locals as the Scotia Barrens. The barrens are now included in State Game Land 176. Many trails are open to hikers, biking, and hunters. A public shooting range is also located right in the middle of the game lands. The Scotia Barrens is unique to the rest of Central Pennsylvania. Due to its location and geographical constructions, The Barrens has it’s own “micro-climate” where it is generally cooler than its surrounding areas by as much as 10-30 degrees. 

At one time the Soctia Barrens was not so barren and just known as the town of Scotia. The town was named after Angrew Carnegie’s homeland of Scotland and he saw promise with the mineral rich area and set up mining. In the 1800s Scotia was a booming mining town and had all the infrastructure many towns today have including a school, store and even a baseball team. Unfortunately the iron in the area depleted fast and the town met a pretty quick demise. The old road that leads through the Scotia Barrens was once the Railroad. Only a few foundations remain and a few remnants of the Iron Industry.

Besides the Barrens unique climate, it is also home to an equally fascinating ghost story. When Scotia was still a mining town, an African-American by the name of Bert Delige was walking home drunk one October night. Bert had been upset about wages he was owed by his recently deceased boss John Baudis for some time and was seen drunk many nights and had found himself frequently having run-ins with the law. That October night however, he ran into the widow Hulda Baudis. Bert argued with the 51-year-old woman about the back wages and the situation escalated. Bert assaulted Mrs. Baudis and then murdered her by cutting her throat with a razor. Bert Delige would later confess to the murder and was the last man hanged in the Bellefonte Jail yard on April 25^th of 1918. The body of Bert was later laid to rest outside of the Negro cemetery near present-day Marysville in non-hallowed ground.

Multiple sightings of a “black” ghost have been seen in the Scotia Barrens and along the road at night. In the 1980’s a local hunter had spotted the apparition near nightfall on April 25^th. Unknowingly the hunter told some of the locals and was told the story of Bert and how he was hung on April 25^th. Since that times other hikers, hunters, and motorists have witness the dark black figure lurking in the Barrens. The resting place of Bert Delige is lost to only those who know where to look. The stone marking his grave has been gone for some time.

Memorial Day Originates in Central PA!

On an October Sunday in 1864, three women unknowingly started a tradition that continues each year. Emma Hunter and her friend Sophie Keller gathered wild flowers and set out to place them on the grave of Emma’s Father, Dr. Reuben Hunter, at Boalsburg Cemetery. Dr. Hunter was a Union Surgeon during the civil war and died in service. Once the two young women had gathered enough flowers they set out to the cemetery to pay their respects.

Upon entering the cemetery, the two girls came across another woman by the name of Mrs. Elizabeth Meyer who was also placing flowers. She was there to pay respect to her son Amos. Amos had died while in service to the Union during the battle of Gettysburg. The three women talked for some time and then proceeded to lay flowers on the other loved ones graves. Little did they know that at that time they were participating in the nation’s first Memorial Day service. Before leaving the cemetery, the three women made a promise to meet and pay memorial the next year as well.

By the next year, word spread about Ms. Hunter, Ms. Keller, and Mrs. Meyer’s intentions to pay memorial. Soon more people from the Boalsburg community wished to participate. On July 4^th of 1856, the community gathered and Clergyman Dr. George Hall gave a sermon proceeded by flowers and flags being placed on the graves of soldiers. This tradition continued each year until May 5^th of 1868 when General John Logan issued that may 30^th 1898 would be the date of memorial. Later the date would become the last Monday of May as it is today.

As a little side note, there are over 24 communities nationwide the “claim” to be the originators of Memorial Day. However, only Waterloo, New York and Boalsburg, Pennsylvania have strong historical documentation and political backing. Also Memorial Day only paid homage to Union soldiers. The date would later grow to honor Confederate soldiers and then all military that died in service.

Today, Boalsburg holds its claim to Memorial Day very seriously. A Memorial Service is held each year in the Boalsburg Cemetery sometime around 6 o-clock in the morning. After the service many food, music, and craft venders line the streets of Boalsburg. Many of the shops in Boalsburg are also open including the historic Duffy’s Tavern that was once an Inn and stop between Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. Besides the venders, civil war reenactments and car shows are normally part of the event as well. Also the Pennsylvania Military Museum and the Boalsburg Mansion Museum are open to the public. Event goers can also visit the Columbus Chapel that dates back to 16^th century Spain. The chapel was shipped to Boalsburg in 1909 when a descendent of Christopher Columbus married a member of the local Bowl family, Col. Theodore Davis Boal.

After attending the Memorial Day event at Boalsburg, I received a newfound respect for our military and also Pennsylvania’s rich history. Boalsburg is right off of Route 322 just a little West of State College in Centre County.

           

Lost Resting Places : Benner Cemetery

Benner Cemetery

My next installment of Lost Resting Places is not as “lost” as ones before that I've  visited. Benner Cemetery however has only just recently been accessible to the public.  For many years, Benner Cemetery was on land owned by the Rockview Penitentiary near State College. In 2010 a new land agreement was drawn up and ownership was transferred over to The Pennsylvania State University. That being the case, it was just asking for me to explore.

The cemetery gets its name from one of it’s most notable interment, General Phillip Benner, and his family. General Benner is noted as the first Iron Master of what is now Centre County. Besides being an accomplished Iron Master, he went on to build multiple homes in Bellefonte, a few stores, gristmill, and other structures. He later  became a civic leader in the community and founded the Centre Democrat newspaper in 1827. General Phillip Benner wound then pass away in July of 1832. The cemetery today stands in an open field with huge trees surrounding its perimeter. A stone fence encompasses the graveyard’s entirety. The only way in is a stone staircase that goes over the wall. Some graves have fallen over and some are illegible, but people still visit and leave flowers.

          To get to Benner Cemetery, take the Shiloh Exit off of I-99 and head north. A short distance a State Game Lands(SGL) sign welcomes you and a pull off stands to the right. Just after the pull off, there is a small area to park on the left hand side next to a foundation of an old structure, which is about 200 feet from the SGL sign. Follow the path into the woods and eventually it will lead to an open field. Benner Cemetery will be on the left located along the path. It is very hard to miss with the huge trees surrounding it. As always, please be respectful.

Swamp Church & The Weeping Spirit

 

Bethesda Church aka Swamp Church

     In a secluded area of Centre county on an old dirt road, sits an abandon church with a lot of history. Bethesda Church was one of the first churches in the area and was founded in 1855. More commonly the church is known by its nick-name “Swamp Church” due to the proximity to the marshy land of Penns Creek. The church had been in service for more than 5 generations and even held the wedding of the current owners Hans and Shirley Sennholz. The last public service as held in 1961. It now sits dormant along Swamp Church Rd. a short distance from Penns Cave. Occasionally the doors of the church open for private events and weddings.

Side view of Swamp Church

      A few local legends circulate around Swamp Church, such as, phantom bells ringing, and ghostly apparitions wondering the property. One story has seem to stick around and was first documented by witnesses in the 1880's. On a chilly night in the beginning of May, Mr. and Mrs. Schultz were relaxing on there porch before bed. At first Mr. Schultz thought he saw a faint outline of a person walking along Swamp Church Rd. but dismissed it with a second glance. The couple was about to go into their home when they both saw a women wearing a white dress carrying something. The women in white then approached the stairs of Bethesda Church. Her distant weeping alarmed Mr. Schultz and he went to investigate and offer help. As Mr. Schultz got closer he was able to make out the spirit saying “William”. The account of what happened next is split in two. One surviving account tells that when the women approached the church, there was a baby in her hands. She pleaded and cried to be let into the church but the doors would not open and she faded away. Another account states once she arrived at the church doors, they flung open and the gas lanterns inside burst with light. The weeping woman then proceeded to walk down the rows of pews showing her child and then faded away once she reached the pulpit.

      Most accounts of the story agree upon the history behind the weeping woman. She was to be married to a solider named William. He was a solider during the 1860's in the Civil War. William and his bride to be conceived a child the night before he left for duty. William, or Will as he is sometimes mentioned, was later killed in battle with others in the 148^th Company D regiment of Pennsylvania in 1862 and never returned to her. The congregation rejected her for baring a child out of wed lock and shunned her. The legend claims that her restless spirits still longs for the congregations acceptance. Legend has it, that on the night of May 3^rd when conditions are right you can still see her walking along the road and trying to win the churches favor.

     I would like to end by just reminding my readers that the church and its grounds are privately owned and please be respectful.

Egg Hill Church

    

     There is a church in Potter Township, Centre County that has been a "hot spot" for paranormal investigators and thrill seekers alike. For a good ghost story a perfect setting is needed, and Egg Hill delivers that setting. First, the church is in a remote site. Secondly, it is old; built-in 1860.Thirdly, it looks creepy; made of unfinished pine on a stone foundation. Finally, it hasn't been in regular use since the 1920's. So lets recap, a church in the middle of nowhere that has not been regularly used and is undoubtedly visually eerie, no wonder so many stories have circulated about it being haunted.

    The most well-known story about Egg Hill is of the supposed mass murder that took place their. The story is ever evolving and is not very consistent. That being said, the story I have gathered goes like this. At the turn of the century in the 1800's, the pastor at that time killed his whole congregation and disposed of the bodies in the near by woods. Other stories say that the pastor only killed the children of the parish. He reportedly would kill them one by one under mysterious circumstances and got away with the murders. Then one day fretting that he would be discovered, he hung himself in the church. These are the largest circulated tales but many other versions exist. I could not find any records of any mass deaths in the area at the time when the church was regularly used. Again this little church just seems unfortunately in the right place for urban legends. Stories include: a murder, phantom bell ringing, apparitions hovering in the near by grave yard, and spirits following your car home as you leave. Normally I am an avid believer in paranormal happenings; however, in this instance very little factual evidence could be found to credit the claims made about Egg Hill. If Egg Hill has any supernatural happenings at all, I believe they reside in the cemetery beside the old one-story church.

     My many experiences at Egg Hill have been pretty fruitless. I have been to this location in the day time to get a better idea of the surroundings and at night. I do admit that it does give off a weird vibe even in daylight. Many of the old grave markers are worn and unreadable. The church is locked from the outside and "No Trespassing" signs mark the outside of the building. During my nighttime experiences, there have been eerie noises coming from the church. They could be easily dismissed as the building settling. However, some unexplainable voices have come from the cemetery while taking pictures that I can not explain. Overall if there is any paranormal activity at this location I believe it minor and in no way related to the folklore about Egg Hill.

    The easiest way to get to Egg hill is to take Rt. 144 north from State College and make a Left on Upper Georges Valley Rd. Approximately after 1 mile you take a right on Egg Hill Rd. The church is about a mile up the hill. A warning that he property is Privately owned and Permission is needed to be on the grounds. Although, most of the church and graveyard is visible from the road.